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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.